White and Blond Emus: We sell eggs and chicks. Taking orders now! Call for details.
2023 / 2024 Pricing:
Eggs: Eggs are not always available. but when we have them they are $250 each. If you order 4 or more eggs the cost goes down to $225 an egg. Shipping is $30 for 2 eggs or $35 for 3 eggs. Min order is 1 egg. I only have 1 female right now and they lay 1 egg every 3 days. So we can only mail 3 eggs to ship at one time to be sure they are less than a week from being laid at shipping. If you order 4 eggs it will be 2 shipments and will need $30 shipping fee for each shipment. Eggs ship USPS Priority with insurance through USPS, *read below for more on this.
Emu Chicks: White chicks: $650ea if day old chick. Blonde chicks: $450ea if day old chick. We can hold a chick for a week if you would like. Chicks that are 1 week old are White: $800, Blond: $600. Chicks leave with enough food for the trip to your home. ALL CHICKS WILL COME UNSEXED. We are located 10 minutes from Archie, MO. We only breed for the rarer white and blonde colors. Chicks MUST BE picked up as soon as ready. IF YOU ORDER A 1 WK OLD CHICK AT THE HIGHER COST, YOUR 1 WK OLD CHICK MUST BE PICKED UP WITHIN 5 DAYS OF TURNING 1 WK OLD. DAY OLD CHICKS MUST BE PICKED UP IMMEDIATELY UPON HATCHING- WITHIN 3 DAYS OF HATCH. Please note day old chicks need extra care and may need legs taped by you if they are not standing with straight legs. I contact you as soon as hatched, so you should look into transport options or plan pick up with us, even before the hatch. If you come to our home to pick up your chicks: DO NOT bring any animals of any kind with you. We have very strict biosecurity on our homestead. If you have an animal with you, we ask it never leave your vehicle. We can tell chick colors at hatch.. If you order a certain number of chicks, not all we put in incubator for you may hatch, so you may need to split between two hatches. This would mean another transport if needed, when those next chicks are ready to leave, to finish your order out. We do not board chicks, while waiting for more chicks to complete your order. The ones that are ready MUST be picked up the week they are ready. Chicks can leave as soon as hatched if wanted day old chicks. If you can not pick up as day olds, you will be charged the older 1 week old chick price if it gets to a week old before pick up or before your transport arrives. Emu chicks can be anywhere around 1 lb and 10″ tall at hatch, and 1.5 to 2.5 lbs at 3 wks of age, and around 15 to 20″ tall, just in-case you need to know for transporting on different ages we might have available for sale. I can give you contact info for a couple ground pet transporters I know. Transports could cost $300-$500 or more. You can also go online to facebook, citizen shipper, or uship online and ask if anyone is going your way and get price quotes. My advice is to just put in what your willing to pay in your ad description on those sites such as citizen shipper and uship, or you will receive more expensive quotes than you want. You would need to contact them to make arrangements to pick up the very week your chicks are ready to leave. If that specific one can not pick up that very week chicks are ready, then find one that can. We can not hold chicks past the time they are ready to leave because they grow too fast. It is still your chick if you have issues with your transport or pick up and we will not refund or transfer your money you have paid. We WILL sale the chick or chicks to others if you do not pick up on time and do not make different arrangements with us that we agree on. More on transports: If transport you find to use wants a health certificate from our vet, that is a $50 fee and the one health certificate is good for all the chicks you have in that shipment. Some do not require it, so ask your transporter. Transporter will need to keep chicks warm some how, so you need to discuss that with them. I do have 72 hour heat packs available for $6 each, best to order one heat pack per each chick since the heat packs are small, and I have a non slip mat or carpet they will need in their transport crate that is $5 – best to allow a non slip surface so chick does not get leg issues. If you need a plastic pet taxi type transport crate, I have some that are 28″ L x 20.5″ W x 21.5″ H, that I sell for $55 each if you need that for your transport needs. DO NOT EVER use a wire sided kennels for emu chicks. It is best to pick up in person yourself if you can, since we do not guarantee any chick leaving on any type of transport delivery service. 2-3 wk old Chicks can not be mailed with USPS. We can mail you day old chicks with USPS, which is much cheaper shipping cost of $100 for 2 chicks, but we will not guarantee them if leaving as day olds, since they are fragile and more of a chance of something going wrong such as stress causing issues, leg problems, etc. Much bigger gamble with day olds and shipping USPS. Day old chicks are cheaper than the wk old chicks. Which you choose is up to you. Call me if you have any questions after reading our full page.
Why Get Emus?
Meat: As emus were imported into various countries, many nations have been successful with emu as a food source. The emu is 95% usable, therefore there is barely any wastage to the bird. Emus are great feed converters. For every 2.5 pounds of feed, there is one pound of gain, making them great meat choices for some farms. Another primary purpose of keeping emus is their use as a meat source. An average adult emu can supply somewhere between 20 and 30 pounds of meat, and the quality and flavor of emu meat is highly praised. Compared to beef, emu meat is very low in fat and low in cholesterol, while at the same time containing higher amounts of vitamin C, vitamin E, protein, and iron (which contributes to the dark red color of the meat). Emu meat tends to be lean, and is recommended by the American Heart Association on its list of healthy protein choices.
Oil: Emu oil is a side-product that is produced from the emu’s fat stores and is harvested when the bird is processed. Emu oil contains fatty acids, including several beneficial acids like Omega 9, Omega 6, and Omega 3, making it popular as a natural skin moisturizer. Additionally, some people claim to enjoy health benefits from using emu oil, citing anti-inflammation properties and relief from muscle soreness, insect bites, sunburns, and a host of other ailments—although these results tend to be anecdotal. Nevertheless, products containing emu oil abound—from soaps to shampoos to lotions.
Eggs: For chicken and duck farmers, eggs are an obvious—and delicious—benefit of bird keeping, but don’t assume that the smaller species represent the only options for eggs, because emu eggs are simply amazing! Consider the impressive physical attributes of an emu egg: a whopping five to six inches in length, around one pound in weight (by contrast, an average chicken egg weighs only about two ounces), and a most delightful and unusual green color! Crafters prize emu eggs for their coloring and size—not to mention the fact that the eggs have a tough, durable shell that stands up well for decorating. Emu eggs are not just pretty to look at, they’re nutritious, too! A single emu egg represents the equivalent of about ten regular chicken eggs, and an emu egg contains more of the “good” and less of the “bad” cholesterol than a chicken’s egg. And the same durable shell that makes it a good choice for crafting also helps emu eggs stay fresh in the refrigerator for a longer time. Interestingly, even though emus have adapted quite nicely to life on another continent, the emu egg-laying season still follows the summer months of Australia, which is about November to March. It takes a female emu three days to produce an egg, and the egg incubation period is 48 to 54 days.
Leather: Besides these previous uses, another less obvious use of the emu is in its distinct leather, which sports a unique pattern caused by the arrangement of the emu’s feather follicles. Emu leather is used in products such as wallets, Western boots, handbags, shoes, and other personal items.
Feathers: And just when you though the emu couldn’t become any versatile, there is still the matter of emu feathers! As with the unique emu eggs, emu feathers are popular with crafters, who use the emu’s long, soft feathers for embellishments in projects like floral arrangements, “dream catchers,” and jewelry.
Fun to have: They are more docile than ostriches and are so funny to watch their big goofy bird personalities, fun to watch them run and play.
Big Blue and Blondie close up view.
The Emu is a flightless bird of Australia that is the second largest living bird: the emu is more than 1.5 metres (5 feet) tall and may weigh more than 45 kg (100 pounds).
The common emu (Dromaius novaehollandiae) is stout-bodied and long-legged, like its relative the cassowary. Both sexes are brownish, with a dark gray head and neck. The white and Blond Emu is a carrier of a lightening gene, so is heterozygous for leucism (a white colored emu with blue eyes – different than albino). Emus are very fast. It is so adorable to watch the youngest chicks run like the flash in a zig zag crazy frinzy. Adult Emus can dash away at nearly 50 km (30 miles) per hour; if cornered, they kick with their big three-toed feet. Emu need space to run and play. They need a 6 foot fence, although I have seen many kept in a 5 foot fence just fine. They do tend to be more docile than ostriches, which is why we decided to get them over their larger cousin. The male incubates 7 to 10 dark green eggs, 13 cm (5 inches) long, in a ground nest for about 60 days. The young soon run with the adults. In small flocks, emus forage for fruits and insects but may also damage crops. The peculiar structure of the trachea of the emu is correlated with the deep booming note of the bird during the breeding season. They are not loud, like peafowl, but you can feel the deep noise they make as it has a low frequency that can carry for miles, even though it is not audible to human ears.
FEEDING: Adults: 3yrs and up, We feed our adults a mixture of equal amounts of 1- non medicated layer pellets, 2- Rabbit pellets, 3- dog food, also giving free choice oyster shell and grit (small stones). We also give them treats such as kale and other fruits and vegetables. Please do your research and find what to feed your birds from hatch on up. Through their entire life you should give them free choice available of oyster shell and also grit. I also have a bowl of charcoal available for my birds. They also get to roam on a few acres on our farm to graze and play. It is actually not as expensive as you think to feed adults. This is because you have males that will stop eating for several months while on a nest, and they barely eat anything at all during breeding season. If there is any change at all, such as moving to a different location, they may not eat for 3 weeks. Sometimes I wonder how they are able to survive with the small amount they eat at times. Online I have found it to say an adult should eat 3 lbs a day, but I have rarely seen that to be the case. If yours have times of not eating, just make sure to keep clean feed available to them, and keep an eye on the birds’ body condition, to make sure there is no underlying cause. If you have food available and worm them twice a year, you should not have any issues. Keep all water sources clean and well filled. They scoop up water, and do not peck water like chickens.
FEEDING: Chicks: It is best to feed chicks the optimal feed you can because those fast growing bones can get messed up quick by malnutrition… So, Feed Mazuri Ratite starter crumble, or a turkey starter crumble with 26% protein, whichever you feed, also add a little kale on side for extra calcium for the first 6 to 18 mths. After that you should start to feed a ratite grower or turkey grower with at least 24-26% crude protein with grass on the side. If no grass is available a source of 11 to 12% fiber should be provided in things like vegis, fruit, or another feed source. Don’t forget the bowls of oyster shell and also grit. Read below on appropriate chick care and the safest way to feed and water newly hatched chicks.
They are pretty much disease free of a species. You just need to possibly worm them once or twice a year. Our Emus are not the common color. They are the much rarer white and blond colors. A common brown Emu can be bought as a day old chick for $150-$300 depending on where you get it from. Blonds are twice the cost of the common browns, and the whites are the rarest and are 3-4 times the cost of the common brown.
*HOW TO PURCHASE CHICKS OR EGGS FROM US: We only breed white and blond. So we will only have white and Blond babies. Any eggs can hatch out either of those two colors. If you will be picking your chick(s) up from our farm: You need to send 20% for us to start to incubate eggs for you. Then you bring rest IN CASH ONLY at pick up when chicks are ready. You will loose any money paid if you do not pick up your chicks when ready. We do not refund money for any reason. If you change your mind on your order, you loose any money you have sent. If your Chick(s) are to be shipped or transported to you via USPS express mail or a ground transport: You need to pay in full now, when you order your chicks, so nothing holds up shipping when ready. In some cases chicks might already be hatched out and available to leave immediately. You will need to contact me to inquire on how to pay for those. Any ground transport will be up to you the buyer to schedule, at bottom of page I have ground transport details. We do sometimes have specials going on chicks if we have some we are needing to sell quickly, I’m not set up for raising chicks, just newly hatched chicks. Keep reading to learn about possible mailing day old chicks with USPS express.
EGGS: We ask $225 to $250 for each egg, if you want to buy eggs to hatch out yourself. Eggs should have high fertility since we keep 1 male in with 1 female. We do not guarantee eggs or chicks once they leave us on a transport or the mail. If you have your eggs or chicks shipped by USPS, they come with insurance, but it is up to you the buyer to make a USPS claim and try to get your insurance paid for any damage or losses during shipping. I do not refund, replace, or make the USPS claim for you. USPS may not pay on your claim on DOA chicks if it is in the middle of the winter months. If worried about shipping, you should arrange to pick up your chicks or eggs yourself in person from our home here near Archie, MO. In general fall to early spring is when these birds are laying here in Missouri. They lay mid day to evening and we collect the eggs as soon as laid so it does not freeze when cold out. Then we put the eggs in a egg fridge set to 60 deg F. turning them several times a day, until they ship. If shipping egg: we mail (USPS priority) and in Styrofoam or thermo type container to help keep from any drastic temperature swings during the transit.
HEALTH GUARANTEE: CHICKS PICKED UP BY NEW OWNER FROM OUR HOME ONLY. This is a simple guarantee. If said chick dies within 7 days of new owner pick up date from our home, we will offer you a store credit for the chick price as long as the following is met: Chick was picked up in person at our home by buyer and did not leave on a transport or USPS mail. You the buyer followed the instructions on proper chick care such as feeding the food we said to, watering, and keeping chick warm / dry, stress free, and use of safe bedding materials was implemented correctly. Dead chick was put in a plastic baggy, and kept cold, but not frozen, then within 12-24 hrs of death, the chick was delivered to a qualified lab or Avian Vet for a necropsy to determine the cause of death. Any store credit, if any, depends on the cause of death. Death from any other reason other than a problem the chick hatched with is not covered. Things such as, but not limited to hypothermia, starvation, virus, infection, parasites, leg issues, injury, or any other issue other than one chick hatched out with that caused the death is not covered. No remedy will be given unless it was a problem the chick hatched with, an example of something we would cover would be a “bad heart” determined by a malformation of the heart chick had from hatch that it died from before 7 days of age. I WILL NOT allow a buyer to have their personal vet write a vet report stating their “opinion” on how the chick died, chick must be sent into a third party lab or Avian vet for the necropsy. The necropsy vet must have proof, not just opinion on cause of death. If necropsy comes back as “undetermined cause” or any other cause other than something congenital, then no store credit will be given. Buyer must not take the id band off the chick. This is how we know it was the chick you received from us. Before you send to vet, You the buyer will need to send me a video of the dead chick showing the band still attached and the id band must still be on the chick when it is sent to the necropsy vet. The band must never be cut off the chick or this 7 day health guarantee is void. Any issues or death that occurs after 7 days is not covered. After 7 days the guarantee is over and you can remove the id band. Chick is considered sold AS IS and pet quality. We also do not guarantee final color, size, sex, disposition, or health. If you buy a chick from us you agree to this full guarantee and you understand emus are fragile and need specific care, food, housing, veting, and you agree to follow our care instructions. You also agree that you have done your research and understand what having a very large bird will intel, and are ready for the future needs and care of the huge adult bird. Jordan Family Farms never pays any vet bills, necropsy bill, or transport fees for any reason on any chick sold. Deposits and all monies paid are non refundable. If you fail to pick chick up the very week it is ready to leave, you the buyer forfeit all monies you have paid, and it will NOT be slid to another chick or chicks. If you ever need help please look over the online articles on here and many other sites. You can contact me if you have questions about the chicks you received from us and can not find an answer on our site. —-end of guarantee
EGG PRICING and SHIPPING: $225 – $250 each egg . Shipping eggs costs $30 for up to 2 eggs. $35 for 3 eggs. (At this time I only have 1 female, so need to ship only 1 to 3 eggs at a time to make sure they are less than a week old at shipping. It is true that Emu eggs last much longer (before incubating) than chicken eggs before hatch rates go down, but I want to give you the best chance at hatch possible, so I only ship Emu eggs that are no more than a week old. If you want more than 2 or 3 eggs, it will be a week or two later when shipping the next 1 or 2 eggs you order. Shipment cost is for each shpment.)- You can ask to wait longer if needed on your second shipment. Keep in mind that Emus lay in clutches and not on a regular bases. I may not be taking orders for eggs if I have chick orders to fill. Call and ask.
Incubating eggs is different for everyone. Emu eggs are harder to hatch than chicken eggs and you may need to adjust your incubation methods to learn the best way in your area and with your type of incubator. If hatching your own eggs from your own birds it is said average hatch rate is 80%. With shipping and transporting we expect that to decrease some. I can tell you how we would incubate, but it might be different for you. Below is how we would do it:
- I set up incubator days in advance and make sure temp and humidity are stable. I personally incubate with the dry hatch method, so I just make sure humidity never goes over 40%, if it does I start up a dehumidifier. Generally, don’t use the incubator turner for turning emu eggs, as most incubators are made for smaller eggs and will only turn the egg part-way. Eggs need to be turned by hand, (180 degrees, three or five times per day – it should always be an odd number), unless you have a larger commercial incubator with a greater turning ratio. Any incubator that will fit emu eggs can be used. Although studies from commercial farming research papers have shown that emu parents turn their eggs 90 degrees. On one side of the egg write a +, with a quilting pencil or chalk, and on the opposite side a -. These symbols are for monitoring the egg turning. Eggs need to be turned about three times every 24 hours, though never the same way; they are always turned back and forth, and marking them helps show us the top and bottom. In the right conditions, Emu eggs can be kept before incubating for up to 3 wks, but for the best hatch rates, the sooner incubated the better on any type of egg. We only ship eggs that are less than a week old.
- Temperature at 36.1°C / 97°F will provide optimum results. Temperature can be flexible a little. (See graph below). If you happen to have your electric go out, don’t give up on your eggs. I have had electric out for 5 hours before, and put a heavy wool blanket over the incubator until it came back on, and did not loose any chicks. In the spring weather electric outages, I have had to take the smaller incubator out in the van and plug it in when electric was out before and that worked as well, so check if you have a AC plug n your car.
TemperatureNumber of days to hatch35.5°C / 96.0 °F55 – 5635.8°C / 96.5°F52 – 5436.1°C / 97.0 °F50 – 5236.4°C / 97.5°F49 – 5136.7°C / 98.0°F46 – 48
- Before setting in incubator on day one, I allow eggs to rest at room temp for 24 hours to come up to room temp and allow any bubbles to settle down from shipping.
- All eggs need to loose about 15% of fluid during incubation. Weigh your egg as soon as you receive them, then again before putting it in incubator.
Calculation to work out weight loss in emu eggs. Check weight once every two weeks. You can adjust humidity as needed if weight loss is not optimal, if close its best not to mess with it though. Some people opt not to check weights, and there is little need to if temp and humidity is perfect throughout. Some say the less you mess with them the better the outcome.
5. If any eggs start getting smelly or weeping they get tossed, so as to not contaminate other eggs. You can tap your eggs with a metal rod to test their health; any that clink like china may be bad eggs. Tapping can also help determine when the bird has pipped internally. Internal pipping can happen around three days before hatching. Tap both ends of the egg to hear if the internal air space has been filled with the bird.
6. Around day 35 the eggs will start wiggling; as time goes by you may hear whistling from within them too. When they pip internally stop turning the eggs. Some people raise humidity to 60% and others don’t. It is advisable to keep your own notes as you learn what works best with your ambient humidity level. The general consensus, though, is to not raise humidity. There is enough air in the egg, once pipped internally, to last for three days or so. Once the chick pips the outside of the egg it can take them about 24 hours to emerge. So no need to panic if it’s taking a while! Emu are much slower at breaking out of their eggs than other birds. Do not feel the urge to pick at the egg or help a chick out; they will do so in their own time. If you feel like encouraging them, then whistling can be reassuring to them and they may even whistle back. Keep in mind that most chicks that are helped out of the shell will be weaker and usually die early in life.
7. Have brooder set up and ready for your chick. Once he has dried off you can move him to the brooder with a heat lamp set up. Give chick space to go to and also get away from the heat source if wanted. When they first hatch out, their bones are still soft and their stomachs are full of yolk, thus, for a day or so, they may not move around much.
Emu can often have their heads back for a day or so, or their feet may turn slightly inwards and it may take them a day or so to stretch out after being scrunched up in the egg. Extreme cases of curled toes on emu, where the toes curl right under may benefit from having cardboard paddles, cut to size and taped to their toes with medical tape, just for a day or so. Make sure brooder floor has bedding that is stable and your chick can stand well on so it does not get splayed legs. I personally use white Bounty paper towels folded on the floor, and then shredded paper towels on top of that. You can also use cloth towels, rugs, or textured rubber mats. If caught early enough, chicks with splayed legs can have legs taped up to train legs to go back to correct position, but it is better to not have the issue at all.
8. Water: It’s really important NOT to supply water in a chick drinker designed for chicken chicks – emu chicks “scoop” rather than “sip” and will become dehydrated if they can’t take in enough water. They are also very clumsy and do stumble into bowls left around their brooder, so the hanging type will avoid this and protect those delicate young legs.
9. Feeding; The best food is ratite chick crumble, so specialist feed needs to be ordered in advance, as it is not something that stores will usually stock on the shelves as standard. It may take a chick 3 days to really eat much, and you can put marbles or big shiny items in their food and water bowls to encourage them to peck at it. I sprinkle a little food around the food bowl on the brooder floor. They will be on the ratite crumb until around a month, after a month mix ratite growers in with it for another month or 2, then they should be on the growers pellets until around 6 months when you can start introducing ratite layers pellets in to the mix. Green leafy vegetables such as spinach, kale, watercress etc should be given every day but not be left out to go off. Emu chicks must not be given medicated feeds. Vitamin B complex of all B vitamins needs to be added to their food or water, this will help prevent weak legs, you could add vitamin B drops in to their water, or buy something formulated for birds such as Vetarks BSP drops or Rooster Booster Poultry Booster. Likewise Vitamin E and B’s will help keep Wry neck away from young emu. With Vitamin E it is worth noting that Vitamin E can’t be absorbed by the body without Selenium, a good bird multivitamin such as rooster Booster should contain what is needed. Feeding the correct non-medicated feed is essential for vitamins, along with fruits and vegetables, but the addition of vitamins is important for hatching emu as their growth rate is quick and the vitamins are essential in avoiding splayed legs and wry neck. Wry neck seems to be increasing in young emu recently. Many people only feed regular non medicated chick starter and say their chicks do just fine… I just say to do your research and decide for yourself what you feel is best for your growing birds.
10. Once it is later spring or summer your larger juvenile fully feathered chicks can live outside. Make sure to keep them in an enclosure safe from predators and bigger adults that could harm them, until they are fully grown, around 18 mths old.
GROUND TRANSPORT OPTION FOR YOUNG CHICKS:
New owner picking chicks or eggs up from our home is always preferred if possible. However I understand not everyone can make the trip. It is best to choose the quickest method you can to get chicks to you. So ask several transporters to see who is quickest. Some take days if they have long routes, which is hard on young fragile chicks. Be sure you go over with the transporter how long the journey will take, and that the birds are cared for correctly so you do not end up receiving weak, stressed chicks with leg issues or worse. We do not guarantee live arrival or health in any type of transport or shipping options. Our 7 day health guarantee against death is for chicks picked up by their new owner from our home only.
Make sure the transport will be using a non slip bedding and will be keeping chicks warm during the trip. If needed I do have supplies such as: 1. plastic shipping crates that are 28”L x 20.5”W x 21.5”H for $55 each and they come with a small food dish that attaches to the door. 2. Carpet or other non slip flooring for traveling $5 each. 3. To keep them warm I have 72 hour heat packs for $6 each, these are small so I would suggest 1 for each chick if you want to use them. These are just options and you do not have to order them for transport. It is up to you.
You will need to make sure the transporter can pick up within the very week the chicks are ready to leave. We do not hold chicks waiting for more to hatch out to complete your order, so you may end up paying for more than one shipment if needed. If you fail to pick up when ready then you loose your 20% deposit and anything else you have paid stays as store credit, we do not refund any money. In this case your store credit can go to future chicks and if it happens again, you forfeit all monies. It is very important that chicks and eggs leave when ready to leave, all payments must be cleared before leaving us, checks can take 2 wks to clear, so must be received at least two weeks before chicks leave us, and we only accept zelle, or payment options that DO NOT use credit cards. If you are picking up in person yourself we ask for you to bring CASH at pickup for what is owed.
You will need to tell transporter these are EMU chicks, so are tall. They are around 1 lb 10″ tall at hatch and by 3 wks are around 15-20” tall and grow very quickly. Remind them that special care will be needed to keep them warm, make sure legs do not get splayed by flooring, thick bedding material or non slip carpet is best, and that they are not using a wire cage for transport. Closed on three sides with wire door with small openings is ok.
- Todd: just for you transport: 479-295-2822
- Williams pet transport: This transporter charges $500 flat rate no matter where they are going. 417-255-6234
- Christine Groom : 856-237-4196
- Dan and Kim 417-507-0062
Here are a couple sites you can go to, to put in an ad stating you are needing transport. Then you can see different quotes. I advise putting in your ad description the amount you are willing to pay, so you do not get tons of expensive quotes you don’t want. Www.citizenshipper.com Www.uship.com
Here is a site that is packed full of info on research papers and for total emu care: https://www.emu.services/research-papers.html
Below is an Emu egg. They are medium to very dark green. Some are almost black in color: